Phillip Senter – Simple Lifesaver https://simplelifesaver.com We're obsessed with tech and time-saving tools. We love to empower people by providing the best tips and tricks you'll come across on the internet. Mon, 21 Aug 2023 21:41:14 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.9.4 https://simplelifesaver.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/cropped-simplelifesaver.com-logo-with-plus-150x150.png Phillip Senter – Simple Lifesaver https://simplelifesaver.com 32 32 Which Countries Use 110V & 220V? [Bookmark Worthy] https://simplelifesaver.com/which-countries-use-110v-220v-bookmark-worthy/ https://simplelifesaver.com/which-countries-use-110v-220v-bookmark-worthy/#respond Mon, 26 Sep 2022 04:07:27 +0000 https://simplelifesaver.com/?p=3514 In the United States, appliances are powered by 220V. But if you move abroad and take your devices with you, it is natural to think about the power supply and voltage. So let’s dive in deeper and understand everything in this guide.

Key Takeaways:

Countries in North America, the Caribbean, and certain areas of the Pacific use 110 volts at 60 hertz, whereas the rest of the globe uses 220 volts at 50 hertz. The voltage ranges covered by 110V and 220V are 100-125V and 220-250V, respectively. In many nations, you will also find both 110V and 220V outlets.

Continue reading till the end to learn about why countries use different power supplies like 110V or 220V, guidance on using your 110V device in countries with 220V, and more.

Why Do Some Countries Have 110V And Others Use 220V?

Thomas Edison, George Westinghouse, and Nikola Tesla helped construct the first modern transmission grid system in the United States in the 1880s.

And they decided to set the voltage at 110 volts for residential usage. Back then, 110 volts was ideal for the majority of electrical appliances, particularly lighting.

Although real voltages on our system typically run a bit higher, this is still the norm in the United States.

Nonetheless, attempts were made to enhance electrical systems while they were being constructed in other nations. For example, in Europe, corporations saw an opportunity to save money by switching to 220 from 110 volts for their electricity grids.

Electric companies can offer the same amount of power at a greater voltage with less current; think of a narrow stream running fast against a wider stream flowing slowly.

With lower current, thinner cables could be used. Copper, used in electrical wiring, is rather costly; therefore, increasing the voltage would result in cost savings.

In Europe, the standard for AC transmission voltage ranged from 220-240 volts. BEW was one of the first European businesses to provide 240-volt AC transmission. Interestingly, they went for 50 hertz rather than the more common 60 hertz.

Gradually, the continent as a whole came around to adopting this 50 hertz AC at a voltage range of 220 to 240 volts. British, French, Spanish, Portuguese, and other colonial powers introduced their voltage and frequency standards to their colonies in Asia and Africa. And that’s how the different power systems got adapted in different countries.

Why Is There No Standard Voltage Across The Globe?

Now, reading all these, naturally, questions arise like why we don’t have a unifying and standard electric system across the globe. Well, indeed, steps were taken in the past, but they didn’t have much success!

For instance, one of the earliest groups to try to standardize voltage and electrical outlets was the International Electrotechnical Commission (IEC).

In 1934, they organized a commission in conjunction with Holland’s International Questions Commission to address the issue of diverse socket designs and varying power factors like voltage and frequency.

World War 2 broke out just as the committee was beginning to make headway in this direction, thereby halting any efforts to standardize. Finally, in the 1950s, the IEC came to the conclusion that it was hard enough to agree on a single standard in a small part of Europe, let alone the rest of the world.

The quantity of these established systems grew too enormous to be altered and reconfigured again as time passed.

Also, advancements happened with the individual electrical transmission type and designs.

Because of the time and money put into developing their own proprietary systems, switching to a new standard would have required a complete overhaul of the electrical transmission infrastructure, from power production to distribution.

In short, North American nations standardized on 110-120 volt AC to reduce the likelihood of serious injury or death, but at the expense of reduced energy efficiency. Also, they went with the best frequency for alternating current transmission, 60 hertz.

To reduce power loss – European countries opted for 220-240 volts of alternating current (AC); however, their choice of 50 hertz as the operating frequency is questionable. In addition, when using a 50 Hz frequency, systems are more likely to flicker.

European countries, including Britain, France, Germany, Spain, and Portugal, set up electrical transmission lines throughout their colonies across Asia and Africa using the same voltage and frequency rating as they did at home.

So overall, for all these reasons, voltage, frequency, and electrical power outlets vary worldwide, and it appears that this will always be the case.

Is 110V Better Than 220V?

For home usage, 110V is better because most loads need less power. However, 220V is better for higher power purposes. Either way, there’s no difference in the cost to the end user because the electricity bills are based on Kilowatt-Hour and not the voltage.

If you choose between a 110V and a 220V appliance, the 220V version will utilize almost precisely half the current. That way, the amount of power and energy required to complete a task remains constant, provided that the appropriate transformer is utilized for the available voltage.

Therefore, there is no difference in the energy expenses of utilizing either option. Neither is notably less expensive to produce or use than the other.

Here’re some pros and cons of 110V:

Pros:Cons:
Lesser chances of electrocuting youThick cables are needed, which can be costly
More suitable for home usage 
Insulation requirement is relatively less. 

Here’re some pros and cons of 220V:

Pros:Cons:
Power can be transmitted at a lesser costIt can be relatively risky.
More suitable for high power 
Simple wiring is required. 

Can 110V Appliances Be Used In 220V Countries?

You can use a 110V Appliance in countries that use 220V, provided you use a voltage converter. The voltage converter should be able to convert the power supply of 220V to the requirement of the device – 110V and thus allow the device to operate properly.

Caution: Never connect a 110V appliance directly to the connection that has 220V; otherwise, the board will get burnt.

For instance, if you use a North American Instant Pot In India, you have to be careful and avoid directly plugging it into the socket – because the voltage is different.

Another thing to note: The frequency (cycles per second) also varies from country to country, along with the voltage. Two common frequencies are used worldwide: 60 Hz (the United States) and 50 Hz (UK).

Most electronics are unaffected by the cycle shift since they convert AC voltage to DC voltage on the fly, and many gadgets can operate on either cycle.

Due to the frequency difference, a motorized appliance designed for 60 Hz may run more slowly when converted to 50 Hz.

To avoid having an analog device, like a clock, keep the wrong time; you should double-check the frequency.

Using a voltage converter is not recommended for use with single-frequency appliances like espresso machines and turntables. Regarding any questions, you can contact the product maker.

Furthermore, equipment that generates heat, such as heaters, steamers, and coffee warmers, should not be used with transformers.

The plug adapters are another distinction to consider. While most nations use the same two-prong style as the United States, this is not universal. Most nations use a different type of plug adaptor from the one used in the United States. In addition, multiple types of outlets exist in many nations.

So ensure you bring the appropriate plug adapters for your destination. If you need help determining which plug adapters to use, refer to this world-travel adapter plug guide.

How Can I Make My 110V Appliance Work With 220v?

To use your 110V household appliances from the United States in nations that utilize 220V electricity, you’ll need a step-down voltage converter or transformer.

On the other side, if you have a step-up voltage converter/transformer, you may use 220V appliances in the United States that normally require 110V.

Most voltage transformers may be toggled between step-up and step-down operation, making them extremely versatile.

Click here to check out one of the best voltage converters available on Amazon.

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Moving A Home Return Air Vent? Most Critical Info to Know https://simplelifesaver.com/moving-a-home-return-air-vent-most-critical-info-to-know/ https://simplelifesaver.com/moving-a-home-return-air-vent-most-critical-info-to-know/#respond Sun, 17 Apr 2022 04:54:16 +0000 https://simplelifesaver.com/?p=2791 { "@context": "https://schema.org/", "@type": "HowTo", "name": "How to move a return air vent?", "step": [ { "@type": "HowToStep", "text": "You will want to plan out where your new return air vent will be while considering the previously stated things. If you would like your return to be on the ceiling, but it was on the floor, that may not work. The same is true for the opposite. You may at least want to have a professional check to see if it is an option.", "url": "https://simplelifesaver.com/moving-a-home-return-air-vent-most-critical-info-to-know/", "name": "1" }, { "@type": "HowToStep", "text": "Once you have the new location scouted out, you will want to assess how to get the return from its old position to the new position. The easiest way to do this will generally be by using flexible ducting, or flex duct as it is commonly called. It is similar to a flexible dryer vent but with insulation and plastic or foil wrapped around it. Trying to extend on with a rectangular or metal round duct would be more costly and difficult for you to do as a homeowner.", "url": "https://simplelifesaver.com/moving-a-home-return-air-vent-most-critical-info-to-know/", "name": "2" }, { "@type": "HowToStep", "text": "If your old return consists entirely of rectangular ductwork from the unit to the old return location, you will want to block off the old hole in the ducting and cut a new hole for the flex duct. You will need an air tight-fitting (ATT) the same size as your flex duct, which is a short cylinder with a lip around the base that allows you to screw it flat to the ducting.", "url": "https://simplelifesaver.com/moving-a-home-return-air-vent-most-critical-info-to-know/", "name": "3" }, { "@type": "HowToStep", "text": "You will slide the inside liner of the flex duct over the ATT and then tighten a Panduit around it, a huge zip tie that can be bought at your local big box hardware store. Then you will slide the insulation and outside cover over that and Panduit that as well. If you have round metal ductwork going from your unit to the previous return, you should be able to unhook it and slide the flex duct over the end and Panduit it as previously described.", "url": "https://simplelifesaver.com/moving-a-home-return-air-vent-most-critical-info-to-know/", "name": "4" }, { "@type": "HowToStep", "text": "At the location of the new return, if it is going in a ceiling or floor, you will want to frame the hole first, or in other words, build a square in which the inset part of the vent will slide into, and then proceed to cut it out. If it is in a wall, you will want to find your studs cut in between them and then frame your hole. When using a filter grill, frame and cut your hole ½ larger than the filter grill. For example, a 20×25 filter grill should be framed and cut to 20.5 x 25.5 for proper fitment. If you use a flat grill that will not hold a filter, keeping it at the correct dimensions is better.", "url": "https://simplelifesaver.com/moving-a-home-return-air-vent-most-critical-info-to-know/", "name": "5" }, { "@type": "HowToStep", "text": "Once your hole is made, you will want to cover the back of it with sheet metal, cut a hole the size of your ATT for your flex, attach the ATT, and then connect the flex in the same fashion.", "url": "https://simplelifesaver.com/moving-a-home-return-air-vent-most-critical-info-to-know/", "name": "6" }, { "@type": "HowToStep", "text": "Finally, silicone all the gaps in the boards and sheet metal, screw your grill, and install the filter. After which, you will have successfully installed a brand-new return air grill.", "url": "https://simplelifesaver.com/moving-a-home-return-air-vent-most-critical-info-to-know/", "name": "7" } ], "description": "Moving your return vent can be a daunting task if you do not know-how. But we will break the process down step by step." }

Homes change over time, along with our tastes and style in home furnishings. The closet or wall that housed your return before may no longer be the best place for it. But what can you do about that problem?

You can hire a professional HVAC company to move your return or move it yourself. Putting the return air vent where you want it to best fit your home needs and designs. The question is, how do you move your return air vent?

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How to move a return air vent?

Moving your return vent can be a daunting task if you do not know-how. But we will break the process down step by step. Multiple factors will decide if it is a project that you can tackle yourself. Here are a few to consider before starting.

Recommended Read:

Other people’s cooking smells can really be a turn-off in your home. Lucky for you, I produced a guide to help reduce or even stop cooking smells traveling through vents.

  • Can you access your return ductwork? This will be the piping that connects your return air vent to the return side of your unit. It may be rectangular, round, or flexible ductwork.
  • If the return is metal ductwork, does it go to the return vent?
  • If the return ducting goes all the way to the return vent, is the duct round or rectangular?
  • Can you access the space where you plan to move the return air vent?
  1. You will want to plan out where your new return air vent will be while considering the previously stated things. If you would like your return to be on the ceiling, but it was on the floor, that may not work. The same is true for the opposite. You may at least want to have a professional check to see if it is an option.
  2. Once you have the new location scouted out, you will want to assess how to get the return from its old position to the new position. The easiest way to do this will generally be by using flexible ducting, or flex duct as it is commonly called. It is similar to a flexible dryer vent but with insulation and plastic or foil wrapped around it. Trying to extend on with a rectangular or metal round duct would be more costly and difficult for you to do as a homeowner.
  3. If your old return consists entirely of rectangular ductwork from the unit to the old return location, you will want to block off the old hole in the ducting and cut a new hole for the flex duct. You will need an air tight-fitting (ATT) the same size as your flex duct, which is a short cylinder with a lip around the base that allows you to screw it flat to the ducting.
  4. You will slide the inside liner of the flex duct over the ATT and then tighten a Panduit around it, a huge zip tie that can be bought at your local big box hardware store. Then you will slide the insulation and outside cover over that and Panduit that as well.

    If you have round metal ductwork going from your unit to the previous return, you should be able to unhook it and slide the flex duct over the end and Panduit it as previously described.

    If it is already a flex duct that is run from the unit to the old return, then you can either use a small piece of round metal ducting the same size as the flex duct to make a coupling or replace the whole thing if a new bag of flex duct will reach. A standard bag of flex duct is twenty-five feet, but you can purchase longer sections in specific sizes.
  5. At the location of the new return, if it is going in a ceiling or floor, you will want to frame the hole first, or in other words, build a square in which the inset part of the vent will slide into, and then proceed to cut it out. If it is in a wall, you will want to find your studs cut in between them and then frame your hole.

    When using a filter grill, frame and cut your hole ½ larger than the filter grill. For example, a 20×25 filter grill should be framed and cut to 20.5 x 25.5 for proper fitment. If you use a flat grill that will not hold a filter, keeping it at the correct dimensions is better. 
  6. Once your hole is made, you will want to cover the back of it with sheet metal, cut a hole the size of your ATT for your flex, attach the ATT, and then connect the flex in the same fashion. 
  7. Finally, silicone all the gaps in the boards and sheet metal, screw your grill, and install the filter. After which, you will have successfully installed a brand-new return air grill. 

How much does it cost to move a return air vent?

If you plan to move the return air vent on your own, you will expect to pay between $200 and $500 for materials, depending on which materials you need and what size.

If you plan to have a professional HVAC company complete the project, you will expect to pay between $400 and $700. 

These prices may vary depending on where your home is located, the materials needed, and the difficulty of completion.

What does a return air vent do?

There are two types of return air vents. One is a filter grill, which is inset and holds a filter behind the front grill. The other will be a flat vent. It has screws around it and does not move or have a filter behind it.

Recommended Read:

I love open-concept kitchens, but when food is not properly vented, your home can fill with smoke and oil vapor. I created a helpful called: Prevent cooking smells from traveling in an open-concept kitchen.

The point of the return air vent is to allow space for the air from your home to be sucked back into your HVAC system. Your HVAC system pushes air into your home to cool it off in the summer or heat it in the winter.

The system must move the conditioned air into your home while pulling the non-conditioned air out. The system works much better by recycling your air and keeping your home from becoming overly pressurized.

DIY vs. Using a pro

Whether you move your return air vent or hire a professional, you will have to use the same materials. If you purchase the materials yourself, you may save some money because most businesses add a markup on their products. But you will also have to acquire the tools to do the job, which may raise the project’s cost higher than if you had a professional do it.

Tools & Materials needed

  • Tin snips
  • Hammer
  • Sawzall (to cut through flooring if applicable)
  • Circular saw (to cut lumber for framing)
  • Sheetrock saw (to cut a hole in sheetrock if applicable)
  • Tape measure
  • Pencil
  • ¼ hex driver (for a drill)
  • A drill or impact
  • Sheet metal screws
  • Wood screws or nails
  • Sheet metal
  • 1 or 2 ATTs 
  • Flexible ducting
  • Two-by-four or larger board (appropriate size to the area that will be framed)
  • Panduit’s (very large zip ties)

Where should a return air vent be located?

When deciding where to place your newly moved return air vent, you will want to consider a location that can draw air equally from all places in your home. If your supply vents are in the ceiling, it is best to place the return air lower to the floor. And the opposite is true. If you have supply vents on the floor, it will be best to raise the return. 

It will never be a good idea to have the return air vent on the floor. This was popular years ago, but it allows dirt and miscellaneous things to accumulate inside much quicker than any other location. 

This has become much rarer than it once was and is hardly ever done anymore. Walls and ceilings are perfectly acceptable locations. Generally, the middle of the home is best, so it can draw from the whole house. Try to stay away from kitchens, bathrooms, and being too near to a supply vent. 

Also, you may want to consider long hallways, as the air has a more challenging time pulling air from the rooms at the end of hallways and may leave them less conditioned. Moving the return to the beginning of the hallway or adding a second return may be a good option for this situation.

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How Water Resistant Are MDF Baseboards? [Money-Saving Tips] https://simplelifesaver.com/how-water-resistant-are-mdf-baseboards-money-saving-tips/ https://simplelifesaver.com/how-water-resistant-are-mdf-baseboards-money-saving-tips/#respond Mon, 11 Apr 2022 20:05:40 +0000 https://simplelifesaver.com/?p=2723 MDF baseboards are the most common baseboard out there. You very well may have MDF baseboards in your home right now. But what is MDF? MDF stands for Medium Density Fiberboard. It is one of the least expensive and most consistent baseboards that you can buy. Because it is manufactured, the pieces will generally be symmetrical and without warpage. While purchasing some of the popular wood options could leave you with warp and bows in the baseboard. Keep reading to see if MDF is right for you. 

How water-resistant are MDF baseboards?

Is MDF waterproof? It is a highly versatile material for baseboards and is used in various things throughout homes. But what about places where it is exposed to moisture, like a bathroom, kitchen, or laundry room? The answer is no.

Most standard forms of MDF are not waterproof at all and will soak up any water that comes into contact like a sponge.

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However, there is a moisture-resistant MDF baseboard, which is referred to as MR MDF. This baseboard advertises that it is not waterproof but moisture resistant. This moisture-resistant MDF can cost around twice as much as standard MDF, but you will save the worry of replacing it if it comes into contact with water. If the price tag turns you away, know that there are other ways to help seal the water from affecting your MDF baseboards that we will discuss throughout this article.

How to make MDF baseboards more water-resistant?

They make paints and stains that help the product they are applied to keep from getting wet. Unfortunately, the way MDF is manufactured, you will not be able to use sealers, only paints. Although MDF does not accept sealer due to its manufacturing process, it does accept paint very well. 

Adding a bead of chalking to the bottom of the MDF baseboard will dramatically improve its resistance to water.

Is MDF more water-resistant when painted?

If you were to paint your MDF baseboard water-resistant, it would be more water-resistant.

As long as the coat of paint stays intact, then moisture should not harm your MDF baseboards.

However, if it develops a crack in the paint, the water will be able to get behind it, and the standard MDF will proceed to soak up the water.

Another thing you should consider is that MDF is still a wood-based product. This means that moisture and humidity levels will cause your baseboards to swell and shrink.

If this happens repeatedly or if it swells or shrinks too much, it can cause the paint to crack.

If you’re a pet owner, check out our recent article that talks about protecting your baseboards from pet hair.

What type of paint should you use?

To help your MDF baseboard become more water-resistant, you must use water-resistant paint. Your local big box hardware store should carry some different options to choose from. If you have ever heard of KILZ, they offer excellent options for primers and paints manufactured to be water-resistant.

The KILZ brand even has color options with their paint so that you are not only stuck with white. However, this is not your only option. There are multiple brands that your local store should carry that you will be able to choose from.

Keeping your baseboards nice and mark-free can be a pain. In a recent article, SLS talks about protecting baseboards from vacuum scuff marks. Check it out here.

Technique for sealing gaps?

Gaps in your baseboard will be a massive factor in whether or not it can be made water-resistant. If there are gaps in between separate pieces of baseboard, or if there are gaps along the wall or floor, it is a place where water can get behind your baseboard and cause significant issues.

The best way to seal up gaps in your MDF baseboard is to use a high-quality, waterproof, and paintable caulking product.

The best method is to ensure the areas to be caulked are clean and without loose material. Apply a thin bead of caulking. Have a bowl of water near you, get your finger wet, and proceed to smooth the caulking.

Rinse your finger off regularly to rid yourself of the excess caulking. Please do not overwork the caulking, or it can worsen the situation. Once it is smooth, allow it to dry, and inspect your work.

Can you reuse water damaged MDF baseboard?

If the MDF baseboard has been exposed to water and was not handled correctly when moisture comes into contact with it, then no, you cannot reuse it. Once MDF becomes soft or begins to fall apart, it is no longer usable. Mold can start to form since it holds the moisture, which no one wants in their home. However, if parts of the MDF have not gotten wet, such as only a tiny piece of the end got water damaged, that part would be able to be cut off, and the rest of the piece of MDF could be used.

The best type of baseboards to use in kitchens and bathrooms

When installing baseboards in wet areas such as bathrooms and kitchens, it is not recommended to install MDF baseboards because they are so susceptible to water.

The top choices for bathroom trim are wood, PVC, or tile. If you do decide to use MDF, make sure all seamed chalked properly.

Wood: Wood is very durable. It can be sealed to make it water-resistant and traditional wood grain style. The problem is that wood can still be vulnerable to moisture if it is exposed to it constantly or if the sealer has not sealed it properly.

PVC: PVC is an excellent choice for kitchens and bathrooms. PVC baseboards are nothing like the white plumbing pipe that may come to mind when you hear it. This comes in similar shapes to any other trim style and even wood grain.

A plastic vinyl composite baseboard is manufactured to look identical to wood grain. So if your home has wood trim throughout and you want to follow suit in the bathroom, but you are worried about the durability, you can go with PVC baseboards. However, if you prefer the white look similar to a traditional MDF baseboard, you can buy a PVC baseboard that matches that. Home Depot carries a full line of PVC baseboard options.

Tile: Tile is an excellent and highly durable option and is thoroughly waterproof. These things have allowed tile to become a widespread bathroom and kitchen trim option.

 MDFPVCWOOD
Moisture Resistance RatingVery PoorExcellentGood, if sealed with a waterproof sealer.
DurabilityVery GoodGoodExcellent
Cost Per Linear Foot$0.60-$1.00$1.15-$3.60$0.80-$1.20
Repairs EasilyGood, as long as it has not gotten too wetGoodGood
SelectionHuge selectionHuge selectionHuge selection

How to remove baseboards?

When removing baseboards, there are a few steps that you will need to take to make to ensure that you do as minor damage as possible. 

  • The first step is to score the trim along the caulk lines with a sharp knife. 
  • Next, you will want to plan where to start. Starting at an outside corner will be best because inside corners will lock the pieces together and make it more likely that a break will occur.
  • Take a putty knife and a hammer and tap the putty knife down behind the trim to create a small gap. Go down the trim length, creating a small opening the whole way.
  • Then, it is best to use a baseboard pulling tool. If you do not have one of those, you will be able to use a pry bar. 
  • Put the end of the pry bar behind the trim and gently pry the edge outward, working your way down. Do not try and take it completely off the first time. Take your time and continue moving slowly until the trim pulls free.
  • Finally, remove any nails left in the wall after pulling the baseboard free. 

Best tools for removing baseboard

The list of tools you will need to remove baseboards are pretty minimal, but having the proper tools can make a difference, especially when considering the trim you are removing.

  • Utility knife or razor knife
  • Hammer
  • Putty knife
  • Trim Puller. This will look similar to a large, heavy, putty knife with a 90-degree angle. This is so you can get behind a wider trim section to pull it from the wall and decrease the chances of breaking it.

Check any water sources to protect baseboards.

If you install any baseboard in any area of your home that would allow it to get wet, you will need to make sure that you inspect your plumbing. Water leaks can be detrimental to your baseboards. A leaking shutoff under a sink can cause the bottom of your vanity to rot and mold, but it could also seep behind your baseboard, where it will soak in and begin to mold without you ever being aware of it.

In conclusion

MDF is an excellent baseboard for many applications that you may have. However, it cannot be exposed to moisture, or else it will cause it to fail. If occasional light moisture might be an issue, then there are moisture-resistant options that are more expensive and water-resistant pain options that you may be able to consider. If the baseboard is exposed to water more often, such as near a shower or bathtub, you may need to consider installing a product such as PVC that is waterproof.

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Control the Smell of Indian & Chinese Cooking with Range Hood https://simplelifesaver.com/control-the-smell-of-indian-and-chinese-cooking-with-the-right-range-hood/ https://simplelifesaver.com/control-the-smell-of-indian-and-chinese-cooking-with-the-right-range-hood/#respond Fri, 21 Feb 2020 21:31:10 +0000 https://simplelifesaver.com/?p=887 When you’re cooking Indian or Chinese dishes, do you notice the smell of food fills your home and even makes its way to the second story and into the bedrooms? It’s mostly due to not having proper venting in your kitchen.

Indian and Chinese dishes require high heat and a wide variety of spices. This combination can cause intense aromas to fill the air. 

When cooking curry dishes or chana masala, smells permeate your kitchen and your entire home. 

I love many Indian and Chinese dishes. It got to the point where I was going out every other day to eat one or the other. 

I made a conscious effort to start making the dishes I love so much at home. I love the smell of Indian cooking. I’m just not too keen on having the strong lingering smell of food in my house. 

I started doing some research to find the best ways to control the smell of strong foods when cooking! 

Rangehoods with higher CFM and exterior venting are crucial for dealing with the robust aroma of Indian or Chinese cooking. A 700 – 900 CFM range hood will dramatically reduce the strong smell of foods in your home. Having a longer hood also helps capture smoke, heat, and steam.

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Understand you won’t completely eliminate all cooking odors, but a good quality range hood can reduce odors to make it more bearable, and you’ll have better air quality in your home. 

Many low-end, inexpensive range hoods have a lower 100 – 300 CFM. Based on my experience, You will need something with higher CFM to minimize the food smell in your home. 

How a Range Hood Impacted My Life

I’ve been a landlord for over ten years. I’ve always been cost-conscious when it came to buying and installing new appliances in my units.  

For many years I didn’t value a good quality range hood. I was always reluctant to invest in a good one.

I used to think they were all the same. I just found the cheapest one and installed it. As long as the fan was spinning, it was good enough.

Boy, was I wrong!

All my rental units were outfitted with your basic 100 CFM range hood. It was not until I had a family from Bengaluru move into the basement of my home. Every time they cooked, the intense smell of onions and other spices would fill the main floor of where I lived. 

The smell would make its way into the bedrooms and the rest of my home. There would be days when I would have to put the pillow over my face to block the smell when I was trying to sleep. The food didn’t smell bad, I just found it hard to sleep, breathing the strong smell of food.   

So I went online and started researching the hell out of trying to resolve this issue! I read a truckload of the article and watched a boatload of videos on the topic. Having proper venting became a recurring theme in my research.  

I decided to buy a 600 – 800 CFM range hood. 

The sales guy asked what the size of my ductwork was. 

I told him it was only a 4-inch. He told me I would only benefit from the 600(Maybe even less CFM) because of my 4-inch exhausting duct opening. Little did I know the 600 CFM would still make a dramatic difference in my Kitchen!

The sales guy demonstrated the suction power of the range hood by placing a large white bowl under the range hood. As he removed his hand from the bowl, the suction power was enough to hold the bowl in place.  

This was an impressive demonstration! After seeing what it can do and getting a pretty good warranty, I was sold! 

After installing the 600 – 800 CFM range hood, it pretty much eliminated the smell. I was in disbelief at first that this simple change made such a big difference.

Here’s a comprehensive chart of duct size requirements depending on your CFM

CFM RangeMinimum Duct Size Recommended Duct Size
400 – 6006″8″
600 – 9007″8″ – 10″
900 – 12008″10″ – 12″
1200+*10″*
*Will depend on duct size, motor, and duct length.

When it was my tenant’s typical dinner time, I didn’t smell anything! 

So I would go outside to where their exhaust was located just to check if they were actually cooking. As I approached the exhaust, I would get slapped in the face with the intense smell of spices that I was very familiar with.

I was so pleased to witness the food smell being vented out and not lingering in the house anymore. 

Then I would go back inside to do a smell test. I would smell nothing after walking all around my house. 

I was thrilled that I eliminated the smells from my home! 

The Benefit of Ducted Range Hoods

I was shocked to find out people still live in homes that don’t use range hoods that vent directly outside.

A range hood is one of the most important essential appliances in your kitchen. They’re made to remove odors, smoke, and heat when you’re cooking. 

They are essential for keeping the air quality in your home fresh, and It also removes oil and steam vapor that can settle in your home. This is what creates that sticky film on your cabinet that’s a pain to clean.

Proper ventilation also helps reduce the growth of bacteria and mold in the home. This improvement in air quality will benefit people with respiratory issues. 

Most range hood brands come with lights. This helps to illuminate the cooking area. You can effectively spot dirty areas of your stove and the surrounding area that needs to be cleaned. 

Basic Understanding Of Ductwork 

Ductwork is tubing that runs through the home. The primary role of ductwork is to move air around your home. Think of it like a big drinking straw running from room to room in your home. 

It moves warm air, cool air, and vents air outside.  

Traditionally air ducts are made out of galvanized steel or aluminum and can be round or rectangular in shape. 

Many standard homes across North America come equipped with ductwork.   

Pros and Cons of Ductless Range Hoods

Just like the name suggests, there is no ductwork that vents the air to the exterior of your home with a ductless. 

Ductless range hoods filter the air and recirculate the air back into the home. 

One benefit of having a ductless range hood is that you don’t need to install any ductwork. Although this might not be the best option for optimal venting, some venting is better than having none at all. 

Because the ductless range hood recirculates air, this gives it a significant disadvantage over its vented counterpart. 

Instead of venting out the heat, oil vapor, food smell, and musty air will linger in your home. 

This will dramatically affect the air quality of your home. 

You will also need to change or clean your filter more frequently to keep optimal performance.  

Why Higher CFM is Important

Do you notice when you’re frying something like onions, the smoke fills up your range hood and billows out of the hood, and goes into your kitchen?

This is mostly due to not having enough suction power to evacuate the accumulated cooking smoke in time. 

CFM plays an essential role in evacuating cooking smoke. 

CFM is short for cubic feet per minute (cu ft/min). It is a measurement of the speed at which air flows move in or out of space. 

Two things affect the speed of airflow, The speed at which the fan spins, and the size of ductwork which the air flows through.  

Having proper CFM will reduce smoke, cooking smells, and oil vapor. Your CFM should be high enough to evacuate cooking smoke and smells before it fills the hood and billows into your kitchen. 

I’ve witnessed demonstrations of range hoods that are powerful enough to suck and hold a large bowl. This is one indicator of a higher CFM range hood. This is one way to illustrate how fast the range hood can evacuate the air. 

Larger Ductwork For Better Venting

Ductwork can come in various shapes and sizes. The opening size is more important than the actual shape. Opening size plays a significant role in how high your CFM is.

If you have the opportunity, I recommend using larger opening ductwork in your home. Not only does it exhaust more efficiently than its smaller counterpart, but it also moves to heat and cooling more abundantly.  

Over-The-Range Microwave

When it comes to microwaves with built-in venting, you cannot beat the convenience. 

With your microwave being mounted overhead, this frees up countertop space where a traditional microwave would go. 

Many people have grown accustomed to seeing over-the-range microwaves in modern homes. 

It’s often considered stylish and sleek looking by new home buyers. 

Disadvantages of Over-The-Range Microwave

The typical over-the-range microwave is 300-400 CFM. 

Not only do you get less suction power on average, but it also has little to no hood.  

Hoods protrude out and help capture the bellowing smoke, steam, and heat. 

Using an over-the-range microwave is a classic case of sacrificing functionality for style and convenience. 

It will be more difficult for the over-the-range microwave to vent if you use the two-front burner stove because the typical over-the-range microwave doesn’t have a hood on it. The smoke is more likely to rise and flow up into your kitchen. 

If you love your over-the-range microwave and not looking to change it, one solution is to use a hood attachment. 

Another option is using your back burners. I know it’s pretty awkward using the back burners for cooking your main dishes. 

But it is one option if you’re really looking for a way to reduce food smell without replacing your over-the-range microwave.  

Final Thoughts

In my opinion, the typical North American kitchen is not equipped for heavy cooking. 

If you hate lingering food smells but love cooking Indian and Chinese dishes, then you’ll need to equip your kitchen correctly. 

Opening windows when you’re cooking can help reduce lingering food smell and bring fresh air into your home.

An open window working in conjunction with a running range hood creates amazing air circulation. The window brings in the fresh air, and the range hood vents out the stagnant air. 

Ultimately, having the right equipment is the best solution if you are genuinely looking to reduce the cooking smell in your home. 

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